ocean water

 

You know, I’m just curious…but does your country have easy and affordable access to resin?  Here in the US, it’s not that bad, I guess.  But I think it’s ridiculously expensive in Japan.  It could be because they mainly sell UV cure resin, but still!  To cope with everyone’s different resin situations, I tried to make this ocean water using as little resin as possible.

 

After the beach sand is completely dry, I painted the water area with turquoise acrylic paint.

After drying the paint, I thinly spread resin over the painted area.  It really helps do to this with a disposable paint brush, by the way.

Wait for the resin to cure completely.

I am so not a fan of fast curing resin these days, due to the horrible yellowing that is pretty much inevitable.  So I used Hi-temp hot glue to create waves.  If you read my blog articles regularly, you probably know this already, but even though the surface of hot glue will turn opaque as it cools down, if you coat it with resin afterwards, it will go back to clear.

The waves of the shore line are also hot glue.   For more detailed wave making, it might still help you to read my old beach article.

I painted over the bubbly part of the big waves white with acrylic paint.

Once again, coat the entire water area with a very thin layer of resin, and your ocean water area is finished.

 

 

beach making

 

“Hey, everyone! Today’s tutorial is on this beach’s sand!”

Yup.  Before I do the ocean water tutorial, I have to do the beach tutorial, because you know, the sand needs to be under the water, too!  🙂

First I painted the Styrofoam base in sandy color with acrylic paint.

While waiting for the paint to dry, I mixed some sand – the kind that is used for sand art.  You can use other kinds of sand, but in many places, taking sand from the beach is illegal, so I don’t recommend doing that.  Plus, the sand used for sand art is super fine, which scales better with a diorama than normal beach sand.  I mixed 1 part normal sand color, and 2 parts white sand for the base part.

Then I sealed the painted surface with clear drying glue.  This is just to be sure that the resin that I was going to use for the ocean water wouldn’t seep through, and also for the base sand to stick on the surface.

Before the glue got dry, I covered the whole area with sand.  Now, if you aren’t trying to be cheap like me, I recommend first making sand, water, and glue mixture in a container and spreading it out on the diorama for the base.  It makes the ground look much smoother and nicer.

 


It’s time to make the shore.

Mix the leftover sand and watered down glue (clear matte finish type).

Spread out the mixture on the areas you want to have the beach.

Before the mixture is dry, I sprinkled some lighter color sand mix to make it look like dry sand.  It adds pretty nice effect, so I highly recommend it.

Once the sand is dry, you’re ready for the ocean water! See you next time!

 

 

light house hill – beach diorama terraforming

 

Hello, all! I’ve received such nice reactions on this beach town diorama from everyone, thank you so much! It’s you that keeps me going, really…just knowing that there are people out there that are excited to see what I make! I am very lucky to be able to share my love for crafting and Sylvanian Families with you!

In today’s tutorial, I’m going to show you how I made the ground and the hill in my beach town diorama.

By the way, my friend Sylvanako made a background for this diorama, it looks AMAZING!! Thank you so much Sylvanako!!

It is pretty similar to the “very green diorama” I made last year, but this one is a bit longer than last year’s.

I came to realize that for the large diorama base, I really like using Styrofoam boards sold at DIY stores for home insulation.  It’s cheap and light, what else can I ask for?

I carved out the rough shape of the terrain with a cutting knife.

I then smoothed out, and then carved out more details with a hot wire cutter.  Oh yeah, I also made a little cave into the side of the cliff.  I can make a fun story with my Sylvanians using this cave. 😉

After I had settled on the shape and placement of my land formation, I needed to smooth out the surface of the Styrofoam hill, so it’s not so Styrofoam-y instead of rocky.  A caulking gun was the cheapest and quickest way to do the job considering the amount of space I had to cover. The caulk was perfect, because it gave me an easy way to fill in gaps, and add additional and detailed texture to the surface. I just used the caulk like putty and covered up the whole hill surface, adding stratum textures on the cliff side.

Once the caulk was all dry, I painted the terrain with acrylic paint.  I just used different shades of similar colors to create stratum look on the side.

For the grass on the hill, I just spread clear drying, matte finish glue on the areas I want the grass to be growing, and then sprinkled on top, green foliage powder.  There were a couple other areas too where I used spray glue.  Spray glue is optional, though.  It is a bit tricky to use, since it blows away light weight things when spraying, and once dry, is super strong and won’t ever come off! You don’t want to make any mistakes when using it!

“Spread glue…”

“And sprinkle!”

I didn’t make this hill too green because I wanted to give it a kind of a rocky terrain.

It’s very important to coat the whole surface with watered down clear drying glue (avoid glossy finish, of course) as soon as the glue under the grass is dry, because caulk might start to crack, or your dolls’ feet might get green from the foliage powder.  It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Later I decided to add a small path going up the hill.  I just used different color of foliage powder (or should I say dirt powder?!).  But you can just use real sand or dirt for this, too.  (You can make a path along with  the base grass, I just forgot to do it then.)

Just spread some glue on the ground where you want the path to be, and then sprinkle the powder over it.

To seal something like this, it’s easier if you gently spray water all over the area you want to seal.  This helps the light weight powder to stay in place for the next step.

Just like other areas, I used watered down glue on it.  Instead of using a brush, I just used my hand to sprinkle the mixture gently.

Once it’s all dry, the new path should be totally blended in.

On top of most of the path, I made stairs with some balsa wood and small garden rocks from a DIY store.

 

That’s it for the terraforming! See you soon!